DEEK TEXTILES

My Weaving View

2009-11-26T22:46:00.000-08:00

WEAVING OF LIFE

Life is but a weaving
between my God and me;
I may not choose the colors,
He knows what they should be.

For He can view the pattern
Upon the upper side,
While I can see it only
On this, the under side.

Sometimes He weaveth sorrow,
Which seemeth strange to me;
But I will trust His judgment,
And work on faithfully.

'Tis He who fills the shuttle,
He knows just what is best;
So I shall weave in earnest
And leave with Him the rest.

At last, when life is ended,
With Him I shall abide,
And I may view the pattern
Upon the upper side,

Then I shall know the reason
Why pain with joy entwined,
Was woven in the fabric
Of life that God designed.

.......... Rajput Banna

Fashion Week In Pakistan

2009-11-20T05:48:00.001-08:00

Some Fashion Shows

Fashion Week In Pakistan

Fiber To Fabrics Textile

2009-11-20T05:36:00.001-08:00

Textile Book

Fiber To Fabrics Textile

View more documents from DEEPANSHU KUSHWAHA.

SOME REVISION OF WEAVING

2009-11-13T22:59:00.001-08:00

presentation

View more presentations from DEEPANSHU KUSHWAHA.

Plain Weaves Derivatives

2009-11-13T19:19:00.000-08:00

DEEK TEXTILES NOTES

PlainWeaveDerivatives

Ribs & Basket, Analysis of plain weave fabric

The extension of the plain weave can proceed either vertically, grouping together several picks in the same shed and resulting in warp ribs; or, horizontally with groups of neighboring ends working together and producing weft ribs; or, in both directions simultaneously, resulting in mat, hopsack or basket weave.

Warp Rib

Weft Rib

Hopsack

Fancy Basket Weave

MULTIPLE LAYER WEAVE

2009-10-21T08:57:00.000-07:00

By Anil Kumar ( NIFT-Chennai/DEEK TEXTILES member)

APPAREL AND HOME FURNISHING FORECAST

2009-09-29T22:02:00.000-07:00

International Spring/Summer 2010

Welcome to the future of fashion & home furnishing this Spring/Summer. Here, you'll find the colors, print directions, weave directions, sports directions, swatches in the International market that will turn heads this coming Spring/Summer 2010

MEGA TREND : EXPRESSIONISM*

FASHION
color
print visuals
swatch visuals
textures
weave visuals
illustrations
knits & sports wear directions
life style preview

HOME
colors
print visuals
swatch visuals
textures
weave visuals
life style preview

*NOTE : FORECASTED BY NCTD

COMMON YARN FAULT IN MAN MADE FIBRES

2009-09-29T11:18:00.000-07:00

1. Slubs:

Slub like thick faults seriously mar the appearance of fabrics made from manmade fibres. The following measures can be taken

A. In Blends with cotton

a. properly select the cotton component
b. ensure proper grinding of wirepoints at cards
c. regularly check the ringframe drafting system.

B. In 100% manmade fibres

a. Ensure adequate number of doublings
b. avoid too wide a roller setting and inadequate weighting on rollers.
c. Select correctly the fibres in regard to their compatibility in length.

2. Crackers

This defect is characterised by the cracking sound produced when the yarn is pulled. The sound is produced due to sudden rupture of fibres curled around the yarn.

- Crackers are caused mainly by the presence of very long fibres due to improper cutting of the two.

- They can also be caused due to high vairability in the elongation of the constituent fibres in the blend.

- Ensure wider roller setting in the back zone, adequate roller weighting and avoid too narrow a spacing between the aprons.

- It is helpful to have low roving twist and higher spinning tension through the use of heavier traveller.

3. Neps

This can also mar the appearance of a fabric

- In man made fibres longer and finer fibres tend to produce more neps.
- Other reasons of neps are
- Excessing beating of fibres in the blow room
- Loading of licker-in or cylinder at card
- Blunt wire points on various carding elements
- excessive lap weight

4. Fluffy Yarn

In general presence of short fibres and proneness to static accumulation tend to produce this defect.

The fault can be corrected by maintaining proper atmospheric conditions and reducing the fluff on roving.

5. Smoky Yarn

- The yarn containing synthetic fibres get smoky through long exposure of the running bobbin in a dirty atmosphere in the ring spinning system.

- Installation of smoke filters in H-plant can correct the problem

- Use of roving build can check this defect.

DETERMINATION OF ABRASION RESISTANCE OF FABRICS

2009-09-29T11:17:00.000-07:00

Plain Abrasion Resistance

Apparatus - Universal Wear Tester

Prior to test, the fabric should be Conditioned to moisture equilibrium from the dry side, in the standard atmosphere of 65+-2% relative humidity and 27+-2 deg C temperature. The test should be carried under standard atmospheric conditions.

Method for determination of plane Abrasion Resistance

1. Cut five circular test specimens of 112 mm in diameter, taking care to take specimens from areas containin the same wales or courses in knitted fabric or the same warp or weft yarn in woven fabric.

2. Set the instrument for inflated diaphram test.

3. Place the specimen over the rubber diaphram in smooth condition and clamp the specimen in place without disturbing it.

4. Place the abrasive paper on the abradent plate under sufficient tension to be held smooth and in such a position that the contact pin, reaching through a hole in the abradent is even with the surface of the abradent. In the absence of any specific material specification , zero emery polishing paper should be used as the abradent.

5. Set the air pressure under the diaphram and load on the abradent plate. In the absence of any specific material specifications, the air pressure should be 0.3kg/sq.cm (4 p.s.i.) and the load on the abradent should be 454 gm. Ensure that the air pressure control and contact between the inflated specimen and loaded abradent is in a state of equilibrium before abrasion is started. To ensure consistent inflation of the diaphragm, inflate to a higher air pressure ( 25 per cent) and then reduce the testing pressure.

6. If the unidirectional abrasion is desired, disengage the rotation mechanism of the specimen clamp and bring the specimen into the direction by turning and setting the clamp after the diaphragm has been inflated.

7. In the event that multi-directional abrasion is required, or if no specific indication as to the abrasion direction is given in the fabric specification, engage rotation mechanism of the specimen clamp.

8. Remove pills of matted fibres interfering with proper contact between specimen and abradent during the test if they cause a marked vibration of the abradent plate.

9. If the specimen slips in the clamp or the air pressure does not remain constant during the test or anomalous wear pattern is obtained, discard such individual measurements and test an additional specimen..

10. One of the following methods is selected for determination of end point as per test specifications:

a. Breakage of Thread: Abrade the specimen until all fibres in the centre of the abraded area are worn off so that the diaphragm and abradent head come into contact and the instrument automatically stops.

b. Removing a predetermined thickness of the material. Abrade the specimen using the electrical depth micrometer to determine the automatic end-point for removing a predetermined thickness of the material from the specimen.

11. Unless the continuous changing abrasion head is used, abradent paper is changed after every 300 cycles.

12. Report shall include the following information :

a. Type of abradent
b. Type of abrasion ( unidirectional or multi directional)
c. No. of cycles to reach the end point as determined by electrical contact.

VELVET

2009-09-29T11:12:00.002-07:00

In this case two series of pile threads are employed, one of which is interwoven on the odd picks and the other on the even picks.

The alternate binding of the pile thread yields a more uniform distribution of the pile tufts so that a well covered surface is produced and this type of structure has been found very useful for upholstry and hangings.

Steps:

a. Arrange top ends on Face picks 1/1
b. Raise top ends on back picks
c. lower back ends on face picks
d. Arrange back on back picks 1/1
e. Arrange pile ends as shown in the weave.

Average Particulars of 100m cotton Velvet

Pile Warp: 60/2 tex acrylic yarn (800-1000m)
Ground and backing warps: 42/2 tex cotton - 106 and 120 m respectively.
Weft 60-74 tex cotton 22 picks per centimeter in each fabric.
13 ground and 13 backing ends/cm in each fabric.
13 pile threads per cm.

WARP PILE FABRICS, FACE TO FACE PRINCIPLE

2009-09-29T11:12:00.001-07:00

The structure is used for firm and hard wearing cloths of the upholstry type.

There is one series of pile threads which passes from the top to the bottom fabric and back again and the ground ends in each fabric interweave in plain order with the weft.

These are often arranged as 1 three-fold single, 1-three fold ply.

The various steps are

a. Arrange top warp on face picks 1/1
b. Raise top warp on back pick
c. Drop bottom warp below face pick
d. Arrange Bottom warp on back pick 1/1

Average Particulars of Moquette structure

For 100 m cloth

Pile warp: 74/2 tex lustre worsted 700-1000m
Tight ground warp: 98/3 tex cotton, 110 m
Slack 3-ply warp : 38/2 tex cotton, 160 m
weft 74 tex cotton, 14 picks/cm in each cloth,
72 splits/10cm with one pile
Two tight and two slack three ply ground ends in each split.

CLOQUE OR CREPON EFFECT

2009-09-29T11:11:00.001-07:00

In such fabrics a waved or cockled surface is produced.

The effect may be due to the weave structure, or the use of yarns with different shrinkage properties or both.

Normally the cockled appearance is achieved due to the use of high twisted yarns in one layer and low twised yarns in the other.

The highly twisted yarns form a net like construction through which the finely set structure composed of the low twist yarns is clearly visible.

The Open structure is achieved by the special arrangement of the threads which may be 3 low twist, 1 high twist in the warp and 4 low twist 1 high twist in the weft.

1. Insert plain weave on low twisted ends and picks
2. Insert plain weave on high twisted ends and picks

IMITATION BACKED CLOTHS

2009-09-29T11:09:00.001-07:00

Any ordinary weave can be so modified as to produce a structure which very closly resembles a weft or a warp backed texture.

In this each thread interweaves regularly on both sides of the cloth.

This system has the advantage that a heavy single cloth is produced which has a fine surface appearance and is elastic and soft in handle.

Imitation Weft Backing ( reverse convention)

Basic Weave 2/5 twill

Insert 2/5 twill on alternate horizontal spaces

Imitation Warp Backing ( Normal Convention)

Insert 2/5 twill on alternate vertical spaces.

Thus it will be an imitation warp backing construction.

BACKED CLOTH WITH WADDED THREADS

2009-09-29T11:07:00.000-07:00

In this construction the object is to obtain a n increased weight - by introducing a thick and cheap yarn between the face texture and the backing threads.

In wap backed cloths, the wadding threads are introduced in the weft and in weft backed cloth in the warp.

Weft Backed and Warp-Wadded Designs

Face Threads= 4/4
Back Weft= 1/7 down
Arrangement= 1Face1 Back, 1 ground 1 wadded.

1. Insert Face weave on face picks 4/4 on ground ends (X)
2.Insert Back weave 1/7 in between two face floats (\)
3. Raise all Face Picks over wadded ends.

Warp Backed and Weft Wadded Constructions

1. Face threads = 4/4
2. Back Threads = 1/7
3. Arrangement= 1 Face 1 Back, 1 Ground 1 Wadded

1. Insert Face Weave 4/4
2. Insert Back Weave 1/7 in between two face floats
3. Raise all face ends over wadded picks.

INTERCHANGING FIGURED BACKED CLOTHS

2009-09-29T11:05:00.002-07:00

These cloths are chiefly used for blankets, dressing gowns and rugs.

The weave is the same in every part of the cloth and a weft surface is produced on both sides.
Interchanging Backed Cloths

The design is due to the manner in which differently coloured wefts are interchanged from one side to the other, a dark figure on light ground on one side corresponds to the light figure on a dark ground on the other side.

Common Fabric Particulars

Warp- Cotton

For a 4-thread weave
60/2 tex cotton warp, 9 ends/cm and 350 tex woollen weft, 19 picks per cm.

Weft Backed Construction ( Reversible)

In A

Dark Surface and Light Back

Face Picks--> Dark (3/1 twill)
Back Picks--> Light (1/3 twill)

In B

Light Surface and Dark Back

Face Picks--> Dark (1/3 twill)
Back Picks--> Light (3/1 twill)

By combining the two weaves, a design of two colors is formed.

Interchanging Warp Backed Cloths

Similarly warp backed cloths can be interchanged.

CENTRE STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH- CENTRE WARP STITCHING

2009-09-29T11:05:00.001-07:00

The purpose of incentre stitching is to bind the two fabrics together with the central thread, which are finer than either the face of backing threads.

The two fabrics are less firmly united than with the self stitching and the cloth has a softer and fuller handle.

It is very useful in cloths in which there is a great difference either in the thickness or the color of back and face yarns.

1. Centre Warp Stitching

Face Weave = 2/2 twill
Back Weave= 2/2 twill
Warp Arrangement 4S4B1S

Steps:

a. Make face weave on face ends and face picks

b. Make Back weave on back ends and back picks

c. Raise all face ends over back picks

d. Raise centre ends over face picks where they are covered by two adjacent floats of the face warp indicated by $.

e. Lower centre ends on back picks where they are covered by two adjacent floats of the back warp (#)

f. Centre ends are raised over back picks.(^)

CENTER STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH- WEFT STITCHING

2009-09-29T11:02:00.000-07:00

1. Insert Face weave on face ends and face picks and back weave on back ends and back picks .

2. Raise all face ends over centre picks (o)

3. Raise all face ends over back picks (X)

4. To achieve a face fabric stitch a face end must be dropped at a place where it is covered by two face wefts ($)

5. Similarly to achieve a back stitch a back end must be raised on centre pick at which it is covered by two back wefts ( shown by #)

INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTHS

2009-09-29T11:00:00.000-07:00

Double Cloths can be joined together by interchanging fabric layers.

The interchanging of threads means that the series which actually alternates between the face and back of the cloth can no longer be designated as the face or back yarns because it will occasionally be the one and occasionally be the other.

Thus in a cloth in which the ends and picks are arranged in an alternate 1 black, 1 white order, the black cloth will form the face when all the black ends are raised over white picks and vice versa.

Interchanging Double Twill and Sateen Stripe Design

Twill

To Make Red

1. Make 2/1 twill Red on Red
2. Make 1/2 twill Blue on Blue
3. Raise all red ends over blue picks to make red

To Make Blue

1. Make 2/1 twill Blue on Blue
2. Make 1/2 twill Red on Red
3. Raise all blue ends over red picks

You can combine these two to make stripes and checks.

STANDARD WORSTED AND WOOL FIBRE

2009-09-29T10:54:00.000-07:00

Agneline
Weave:Plain
Characteristics: A black woolen fabric with a very long nape. It is coarse and heavy. When stretched the fibres tighten and become water resistant.

Albert Cloth
Characteristics: It has a double layer of wool and is reversible. Faces and backs may vary in colour and pattern. Provides additional warmth and body.
Uses: Outerwraps.

Astrakhan
Fibre: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back.
Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caracul lambskin form the Astrakhan section of Russia.
Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.
Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.

Barathea
Fibre: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.
Weave: An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.
Characteristics: Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.

Beaver Cloth
Fibre: Wool. Also sotton and napped on both sides - double faced.
Weave: Twill and very heavily napped, and fulled.
Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine.
Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.

Bedford Cord
Fibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.
Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing.
Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Has various qualities and weights.
Uses: Suitings, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.

Birdseye
Fibre: Worsted.
Weave: Usually dobby.
Characteristics: Smooth, clear finish. Has small diamond-shaped figures with a dot in the centre of each. Pattern suggests the eye of a bird.
Uses: Fine quality suiting for men and women.

Blanket Cloth
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm.
Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.

Bolivia (Elysian)
Fibre: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair.
Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern.
Characteristics: Pile face which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights.
Uses: Cloakings and coatings and some suits.

Bombazine
Fibre: Usually has silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum" which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk.
Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade.

Boucle
Fibre: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibres.
Weave: Any weave, knit.
Characteristics: From the French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.
Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.

Broadcloth
Fibre: Wool. Also cotton and silk but very different from wool broadcloth.
Weave: Usually a twill with a two up and one down construction. Some also in the plain weave.
Characteristics: Has a napped face, closely sheared and polished, producing a silky gloss - in same group of fabrics as kersey, beaver cloth, melton. One way nap, must be handled like velvet when cutting. It comes in a variety of colours and weights. It is "dressy" fabric and must be handled with care - form fitting and drapes well.

Cavalry Twill
Fibre: Woolen or worsted.
Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill.
Characteristics: Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S. elastique but elastique is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave). Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal.
Uses: Riding habits, ski wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.

Challis (Chalys)
Fibre: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fibre, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.
Uses: Women's and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.

Cheviot
Fibre: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.
Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain).
Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crease and sags with wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a tweed.
Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.

Chinchilla
Fibre: Wool - also made in cotton, and some manmade and synthetics.
Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.
Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.
Uses: In wool, for coats. Dark shades in wool are most popular, particularly navy and black.

Covert
Fibre: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Made with two shades of colour e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) and filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Light in weight.
Uses: For overcoating for both men and women. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.

Crepe
Fibre: Woolen, worsted cotton, silk, man-made synthetics.
Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves.
Characteristics: Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harsh dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect.
Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.

Doeskin
Fibre: Wool and also rayon.
Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave.
Rayon: Twill weave and napped on one side, or a small satin-weave.
Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.

Donegal
Fibre: Wool - also in rayons and cottons.
Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill.
Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough and ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England.
Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a tailored, sporty look.

Duvetyn(e)
Fibre: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.
Weave: Satin, 7 or 8 shaft.
Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance resembling a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".
Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the millinery trade.

Eponge (Souffle)
Fibre: Wool, also rayon and silk.
Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse.
Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and sponge-like in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle".
Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits.

Felt
Fibre: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fibre, can be mixed with other fibres, cotton, rayon.
Weave: Not woven but felted.
Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not fray. Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts.

Flannel
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon.
Wool Flannel
Weave: Usually twill, some plain.
Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a napped surface that partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights. More loosely woven than worsted flannel with a higher nap and bulkier hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined. Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard, it flattens in the nap. Comes in many colours, weights, and fancy effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn.
Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts. Shirts and sportswear.

Worsted Flannel
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Made in a variety of weights. More closely woven and harder than wool flannel. Can have a very slight nap on one side. tailors very well. Presses well and holds a hard crease.
Uses: Men's suits, jacksets and trousers. Women's coats, suits, skirts, and tailored dresses.

Fleece
Fibre: Wool specialty hair fibres, cotton.
Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The inter-lacing s are will covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time.
Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.

Gabardine
Fibre: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.
Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees).
Characteristics: Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly.
Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.

Homespun
Fibre: Wool.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an undyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has a substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.
Uses: Coats, suits, seperates, and sportswear.

Hopsacking
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hem, jute.
Weave: Basket. In wool and worsted 2 x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to resemble hopsack cloth.
Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights.
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for dresses.

Houndstooth
Fibre: most commonly made with wool.
Weave: broken twill weave.
Characteristics: weaved into an irregular check of a four pointed star.
Uses: sportcoats, suits.

Jersey
Wool Jersey
Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).
Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.
Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

Doubleknit
Fibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics
Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type
Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the right side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

Kersey
Fibre: Wool - poor quality, can also be made of re-used or remanufactured wool.
Weave: Double cloth.
Characteristics: Medium to heavy weight, similar to melton and beaver. Well fulled in the finishing with a rather lustrous nap caused by the use of lustrous crossbred wools. Nap often has direction. Gives good wear and is dressy looking. Blues, browns and blacks are the most popular colours. Originated in Kersey, England in 11th century. Very similar to beaver but it is fulled more, has a shorter nap and a much higher lustre.
Uses: Men's overcoating, uniforms, women's coats, and skirts.

Lambswool
Fibre: Wool
Weave:
Characteristics:This is the wool that is taken from sheep before they reach the age of 7 months. It is soft and smooth and has superior spinning properties.
Uses:

Loden Cloth
Fibre: Wool or mixed-wool.
Weave:
Characteristics: Its name comes from the German word Loda, which means hair cloth. It was originally made exclusively from wool but is now found in a combination of wool with alpaca, mohair or camel. It is well known for its thickness, durability and resistance to water.
Uses: Winter clothes and sportswear.

Mackinaw
Fibre: Wool. Ordinary grade of wool and often has shoddy re-used or remanufactured wool mixed in. Sometimes a cotton warp is used.
Weave: Twill or double cloth. Weave is concealed.
Characteristics: Very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave. Much of the fabric is in a plaid or large check design or brightly coloured, or different colours on each side. Heavy and thick, very similar to melton. Named for MacKinac Island, Michigan. Also called ski cloth or snow cloth.
Uses: Miners, lumbermen, hunters, trappers, fishermen, and cowboys use much of the fabric for jackets, mackinaws and coats. Also used for blankets, shirts, and some heavy sportswear, windbreakers.

Melton
Fibre: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics.
Weave: Twill or satin weave.
Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely sheared. Coarse meltons are similar to makinaws but made of finer yarns and finished with a smoother, more lustrous surface - used for "under collar cloth" in lighter weights. Very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. if made in tan or buff colour in a coarse quality, it is called "Box cloth". It is classed with kersey, beaver, and broadcloth. Originated in Melton, Mowbray, England, which is a fox hunting report in england. It was first made as a hunting cloth. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat.
Uses: Mostly used for men in overcoating, uniform cloth of all kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as police and firemen), pea jackets, regal liverly. Used for heavy outer sports garments and coats for women.

Monk's Cloth
Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.
Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.
Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew and manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture.
Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.

Montagnac
Fibre:
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: This luxurious textile is soft and lustrous. It is mainly created with Cashemere or Camel hair.
Uses: Overcoating.

Pin Check, Pinhead, Pick and Pick
Fibre: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: A minute check effect caused by a combination of weave and colour. It has the appearance of tiny white dots appearing in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well. In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.
Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.

Pyrenees
Fibre: Wool
Weave:
Characteristics This fabric is made in France from the wool of Pyrenees'flocks of sheep. The Pyrenees is a mountain chain between France and Spain. The fabric is well known because it is a high quality fabric which keeps warm.
Uses: Men's and women's dressing gowns.

Repp or Rep
Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, rayon, wool ottoman, cotton or a blend.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a pronounced narrow cylindrical rib in the filling direction - less distinct than bengaline; more distinct than poplin. Sometimes a very distinct rib is alternated with a small rib. It is similar to poplin but heavier in cotton. Can be dyed, printed, or white. Frays badly. Difficult to press (may flatten rib).
Uses: Heavy suits, and coats for men's and boy's wear, and also for some women. Also used for upholstery and drapery.

Serge
Fibre: Worsted - also unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: A very distinct twill (2 up/2 down) which shows on both sides of the fabric.
Characteristics: On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot ne removed permanently. It is a good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has a very fine twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits.
Uses: Coats, suits and sportswear.

Shatush
Characteristics: This is one of the finest textiles. It is created from white, silver or gray hair of wild goats. The supply of this hair is very limited so the textile is very rare. It is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world.

Sharkskin
Fibre: Worsted. Some wool. Also made in rayons and synthetics (particularly Arnel) but they are quite different.
Weave: 2 x 2 twill weave (1 white, 1 black up and same down).
Characteristics: The yarns in both the warp and filling are alternately white (or very light yarns) and coloured. The combination of weave and colour results in coloured lines running diagonally to the left opposite to the twill lines in a "step" effect. Has a very sleek, smooth, feel and appearance. Although it is fairly light in weight, it has a very substantial feel. Gives excellent wear and sheds dirt readily. Has many variations.
Uses: Used for men's and women's suits, lightweight coats and sportswear.

Shetland
Fibre: Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. Sheep have a coarse outer coat and a very fine undercoat which gives added warmth. The best is the undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring. Other wools sometimes called shetland if they have a similar appearance.
Weave: Twill, plain, or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a very soft hand and a shaggy finish of protruding fibres. - a pulled wool; the soft undergrowth of the shetland sheep. Very lightweight and warm. Much is made by hand and comes in distinctive soft colouring. Often the natural colours ranging from off-white, various grays to almost black and brown are used and not dyed. Real Shetland wools are expensive, high quality products. - In the same family group as homespun, tweed and cheviot.
Uses: Coats, suits, and sportswear for both men and women. Fine shetlands are made into fine shawls, underwear crochet, work and hosiery.

Suede
Fibre: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted.
Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier.
Uses: Cleaning cloths, gloves, linings, sports coats.

Tricotine
Fibre: Worsted, wool, rayon, blends with synthetics.
Weave: 63 twill, left to right (double).
Characteristics: Has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily. Medium in weight. Has exceptional wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry twill, but finer. In the same family as whipcords, coverts, and gabardines.
Uses: Men's and women's suits and coats. It is also used for ski slacks in a stretch fabric.

Tropical Worsteds
Fibre: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any fibre or blends of wool and a synthetic.
Weave: Plain and rather open weaves.
Characteristics: The yarns are very tightly twisted and woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and tropical wear. It has a clear finish. Wears and tailors very well.
Uses: Both men's and women's suits and coats.

Tweed
Fibre: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics.
Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or plain.
Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland. Sometimes known as "tweel". Sistercloth of homespun cheviot and shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use. Originally only made from different coloured stock-dyed fibres, producing various colour effects. There are a wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds. May also be plaid, checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well.
Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children. Lighter weight, used for dresses.

Harris Tweed
All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides). There are two types of Harris Tweed:
1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn.
2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn.
Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped to that effect in addition to the label which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28" widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smokey.

Venetian
Fibre: Worsted, wool worsted and wool, cotton.
Weave: 5 shaft satin, some in small repeat twill weaves, in cotton, 8 shaft satin (warp face). 2 ply warp and single filling.
Characteristics: Clear finish. Has a very good lustre finish which resembles satin. Some has a slight nap. Wears well - similar cloth has worsted warp and woolen filling.
Uses: In a good quality used for expensive suits for women and sports jackets for men. Also used for fine coatings for both men and women. In cotton, it resembles very heavy sateen and is used mostly for lining.

Viyella
Fibre: A blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: Has the appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm. Holds a good pleat. Washable by machine. If made up in a slim skirt for women, should be underlined, as it has not much body.
Uses: Excellent for all kinds of children's and baby's wear, sportswear, men's and women's tailored shirts and dresses.

Whipcord
Fibre: Worsted or woolen, also cotton and rayon.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. The twill is steep 63 degrees and goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it stimulates the lash of a whip.
Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is also used for automobile seat covers and little boys play suits.

Wool
Fibre:
Weave:
Characteristics: This fibre is made from the hair of various animals such as sheep, llamas, camels and goats. It is very resilient and resistant to wrinkling. It is renewed by moisture and well known for its warmth.
Uses:Clothing, blankets, winter wear.

Zibeline
Fibre: Wool from cross-bred yarns.
Weave: Satin.
Characteristics: The fabric is napped then steamed and pressed. The nap is long and lies in one direction. It is very lustrous and sleek. It may or may not be given a soft finish and feel. It is usually strong colored and sometimes stripings (removal of color) is noted in the cloth. Named for the "zibeline" a small animal found in Siberia. It belongs to the sable family and has fine black fur.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, capes and winter suits for women.

STANDARD SILK AND SILK IMITATION FIBRE

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Barathea
Fibre: Silk, rayon, acetate.
Weave: Broken ribbed weave.
Characteristics: Fabric has granular texture achieved by the short broken ribs in the filling direction. It is a rich soft-looking, fine fabric.
Uses: Men's dress ties, cumberbunds.

Bayadere
Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Crosswise rib (plain or twill weave).
Characteristics: Has brightly coloured stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The colour effects are usually startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets.
Uses: Blouses, dresses, after 5 wear.

Bengaline
Fibre: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton.
Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced.
Characteristics: First made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton dilling in the ribs which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The cloth is usually 40" wide.
Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored look, mourning cloth, draperies. Cotele - A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is given a hard twist.

Brocade
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, and all others.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby.
Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with coloured or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the latin name "brocade" which means to figure.
Uses: All types of after 5 wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.

Brocatelle
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics.
Weave: Jacquard - double or backed cloth.
Characteristics: Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground. It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the XIIIth adn XIVth Century fabrics, but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect.
Uses: Draperies, furniture, coverings and general decorating purposes as well as all kinds of after 5 wear.

Camocas
Characteristics:Was popular in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was a very beautiful fabric which was often stripped with gold or silver. It had a satin base and was diapered like fine linen.

Cendal
Fibre:silk, made in various qualities
Weave:usually plain with a fine cross rib.
Characteristics:Material resembling taffeta. Widely used in the Middle Ages, but rarely found except for as lining by the 17th century.

Chiffon (French for "rag")
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille taffeta.
Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.

China Silk
Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric.
Uses: Mostly for linings and underlinings, and could be used for blouses.

Crepe
See wool for general notes. They all have a pebbled, rough feel and appearance. Yarns have a high twist in the filling or the warp or both. Most crepes launder well with care.

Crepe-back satin, satin-back crepe, crepe-satin, or satin-crepe.
Satin weave on the face and a crepe effect on the back obtained with twisted crepe yarns in the filling - 2 or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is a soft fabric which is reversible. It is usually piece dyed. Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by using both sides, in different parts. e.g. the crepe side for the body and trim or binding with the satin part up.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, linings, after 5 wear.

Crepe de Chine
Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.

Crepon
Crepe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool crepe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise direction. Mostly used for prints.
Uses: Dresses and ensembles.

Georgette Crepe
Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body. gives excellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions. Georgette has a harder, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than crepe de chine.
Uses: After 5 wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc. Same uses as crepe de chine.

Flat Crepe
Also called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white, coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well.
Uses: Accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pyjamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings.

Moss Crepe
Mossy Crepe or Sand Crepe (trade mark). Has a fine moss effect created by plain weave or small Dobby. Made with a spun-rayon warp and a filament rayon filling. The two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and bulkier than the filling. Mostly made in rayon and synthetics but some in silk.

Degummed Silk
By boiling the silk in hot water, the gum (sericin) is removed from the yarn/fabric. By doing this, the luster of the silk is enhanced. It is very lightweight.

Duchesse
Characteristics: This form of satin has a wonderful luster and a smooth feel. It's thread count is very high.
Uses: Women's wear.

Doupion, Douppioni
Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places.
Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.

Faconne
Fibre: Silk or rayon.
Weave: Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish.
Characteristics: Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and could be slightly creped. Background is much more sheer than the designs, therefore the designs seem to stand out. Very effective when worn over a different colour. Drapes, handle, and wears well.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.

Faille
Fibre: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than gros grain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the crepe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats.

Foulard
Fibre: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted.
Weave: Twill, 2 up 2 down.
Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported from India.
Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the handkerchief trade.

Frise
Fibre: Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton.
Weave: Pile (looped).
Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern.
Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transportation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes. Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woolen overcoating fabric which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for overcoating material for soldiers. Much adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable and is called "cotha more".

Glove Silk
Fibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Knit - two bar doubleknit tricot.
Characteristics: Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex.
Uses: Gloves and underwear. Similar to chamoisette (cotton).

Habutai
Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known "momme" (1 momme = 3.75 g). Made from waste silk that can be twisted. It is piece dyed or printed and sized. Has many defects in the cloth which has a "shot-about" appearance but this does not effect the cloth. Comes from Japan - originally woven in the gum on Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung but heavier than silk.
Uses: Dresses, coats, shirting, lamp shades, lingerie, curtains.

Honan
Fibre: Silk, also from man-made synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: The best grade of wild silk. Very similar to "pongee" but finer. Made from wild silkworms raised in the Honan area of China. The only wild type that gives even dyeing results. Do not fit too tightly.
Uses: Dresses, ensembles, blouses, lingerie.

Illusion
Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Gauze or made on bobbinet machine or knotted.
Characteristics: A very fine, all-silk tulle which originated in France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths.
Uses: Veilings, particularly for weddings, trimmings.

Lame
Fibre: Silk or any textile fibre in which metallic threads are used in the warp or the filling. Lame is also a trade mark for metallic yarns.
Weave: Usually a figured weave but could be any.
Characteristics: French for "trimmed with leaves of gold or silver". Often has pattern all over the surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear. The term comes from the French for "worked with gold and silver wire".
Uses: Principally for evening wear.

Marquisette
Fibre: Silk, cotton, rayon, synthetics.
Weave:Gauze or lino.
Characteristics: Very lightweight, open, sheer, mesh fabric. Wears very well and launders very well. Comes in white, solid colours and novelty effect. Sometimes with a swivel dot or clip spot (marquisette).
Uses: Window curtains, dressy dress wear, such as bridal parties or after 5 wear.

Matelasse
French for "cushioned or padded".
Fibre:Figured made on jacquard or dobby loom, in double cloth weave.
Characteristics: The pattern stands out and gives a "pouch" or "quilted" effect to the goods. Crepe yarn in double weave shrinks during finishing causing a blistering effect. in upholstery, coarse yarns cause blistering. Comes in colours, novelty effects, and some with metallic yarns. Gives good wear and drapes well. If washable, it must be laundered with care. It is very attractive and suits quite plain styles.
Uses: Some cotton matelasse used for bedspreads, dresses, suits, ensembles.

Messaline
Fibre: Silk
Weave:
Characteristics: Often believed to be named after the Roman Emeror Claudius' third wife. It is very soft, lustrous and lightweight. It usually comes in solid colours.
Uses:

Mousseline de Soie
Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is silk muslin. Sheer, open, and lightweight. It is something like chiffon but with a crisp finish produced by sizing. It does not wear well and it does not launder.
Uses: Evening wear, and bridal wear. Trimmings. Also used in millinery as a backing.

Moire
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton.
Weave: Plain or crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between engraved cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently. The pattern is not permanent, except on acetate rayon.
Uses: After 5 wear, formals, dresses and coats, draperies, bedspreads.

Net
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, particularly nylon.
Weave: Knotted, made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves.
Characteristics: A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light.
Uses: It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.

Ninnon
Fibre: Rayon. Synthetics.
Weave: Plain, open mesh.
Characteristics: A sheer, fairly crisp fabric, heavier than chiffon. Much like voile, but more body. The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs. Washes well, particularly in the synthetics.
Uses: Mostly used for curtains, and some for evening or bridal wear.

Organza
Fibre: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen.
Uses: All types of after 5 dresses, trimming, neckwear, millinery, and underlinings for delicate, sheer materials, as well as an underlining for other fabrics that require a bit of stiffness without weight.

Ottoman
Fibre: Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics:Heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline. Very pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely. Is called Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed. Fabric is stiff and cannot be gathered or shirred. Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too tightly.
Uses: Evening wraps, formal coats, dressy suits, dressy afternoon wear, and after 5 wear.

Panne
Characteristics: Panne is a French word meaning plush. It resembles velvet but has a much longer pile. It has high luster and is made in silk, silk blends or with manufactured fibres.

Peau de Cynge
Characteristics: The name comes from a French phrase that means "swam skin". Crepe yarns are woven to create a silk textile with high luster. It has a slightly slubbed texture and a good body.

Peau de Peche
Characteristics: The name comes from a French phrase meaning "skin of peach". This textile has a soft nap that is acquired after a finishing process.

Pongee
Fibre: Silk, cotton, rayon.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics:Originally from China and originally woven on hand looms in the home. Light or medium weight. Tan or ecru in colour. Woven "in the gum". Some is dyed, but colour is not quite uniform. Some printed. warp is finer and more even than filling. Nubs or irregular cross ribsl produced by uneven yarns. It is woven from wild tussah silk and it is a "raw silk".
Uses: Dresses, ensembles, blouses, summer suits, in a medium weight. It used to be a great deal for drapery linings. Pongee cotton is made of combed yarns and given a variety of finishes.

Rajah (trade name)
Fibre: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Plain - warp yarn is 4 thread organized - filling is heavier.
Characteristics: Made from a tussah silk or certain silk wastes. It belongs to the pongee family of silks. Made from irregular yarns, so has slubs and irregularities but thicker than shantung. it is rather compact and strong. Has a pebble-like feel and appearance. Comes in all colours as well as natural ecru shades, but often warp and filling are different colours (iridescent effect).

Satin
Fibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave:Satin.
Characteristics: Originated in China (Zaytoun, China - now Canton - a port from which satins were exported during the Middle Ages). Became known in Europe during the XIIth, and XIIIth Centuries in Italy. Became known in England by the XIVth Century. It became a favourite of all court life because of its exquisite qualities and feel. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The lustre is produced by running it between hot cylinders. Made in many colours, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.
Uses: Slips, after 5 dresses, coats, capes, and jackets, lining fabrics, millinery, drapes, covers, and pillows, trimmings, etc.

Double-face Satin
Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.

Duchess
An 8-12 shaft satin. It is a dress fabric. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp with more ends/inch than picks. The material is string, has a high lustre, and texture, and it is firm. Usually 36" wide. Characterized by grainy twill on back.

Paillette Satin
It is characterized by it's changeable colour and is available in a variety of different colours. It was originally executed in silk but is now made with manufactured fibres.

Peau de Soie
Soft, satin-face, good quality cloth. It has a dull lustre. Has a grainy appearance, and is a characteristic in the cloth which may have a single or double face construction. Fine close ribs are seen in the filling direction. With the best grades, the fabric can be used on either side. Lower qualities are finished on one side only. Name means "skin of silk". Some cloth sold as peau de soie is really a de-lustered satin. It doesn't have the grainy appearance. Because of crosswise rib, fabric difficult to ease. Also sold as "de-lustered satin".

Satin-back
Satin on one side and anything on the other. e.g. very good velvet ribbon has velvet on one side and satin on the other.

Satin-back Crepe
A reversible cloth with satin on one side and crepe on the other.

Satin Faconne
jacquard figured fabric with an all-satin weave background. Various types of striping effects are obtained. Jacquard figure on a satin ground.

Slipper Satin
Strong, compactly woven with quite a bit of body. It is used chiefly for footwear. Textures are high and the material comes coloured, black or white, or richly brocaded effects. - Shiniest satin.

Shantung
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics.
Weave:Plain.
Characteristics: It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colours and also printed.
Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats.

Sharkskin
Fibre: Rayon (acetate), synthetics, particularly Arnel. Worsted.
Weave: Plain or twill (2 up 2 down).
Characteristics:Has a heavy, semi-crisp texture. It is very smooth and slippery. Has a flat look. It is mostly made in white but some also comes coloured. It wears well and launders well particularly in Arnel. Has a tendency to turn yellow with age, but the Arnel remains pure white.
Uses: All kinds of summer wear. Dresses, suits, and coats. Used extensively for sportswear, for men, women and children.

Sheer
Fibre: Any fibre.
Weave: Mostly plain but could be various weaves.
Characteristics: Any very light-weight fabric (e.g. chiffon, georgette, voile, sheer crepe).Usually has an open weave. They mostly feel cool.

Triple Sheers
Heavier and flatter than sheers. Almost opaque. Many are made from "Bemberg", which wears, drapes, and washes well. Sheers are used extensively for after 5 wear, as well as afternoon dresses in heavier weights, and some coats, lingerie, curtains, trims, etc.

Silk
It is obtained from cocoons of certain species of caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of the fines textiles. It is also very strong and absorbent.

Spun Rayon
Fibre: Rayon.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Simulated cotton or wool made with staple fibers in a continuous strand to give this effect. Wears well and is washable. Made in different weights. Comes in plain colours and prints. Has soft, fuzzy surface. Blends well with cotton.
Uses: Dresses, suits, sportswear, men's shirts.

Surah
Fibre: Silk, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Twill (2 up and 2 down).
Characteristics: Soft and flexible. Lightweight and lustrous. Has a decided twill on the fabric. Wrinkles fairly easily. Underlining helps to prevent this, as well as to prevent slipping at the seams. Some have a tendency to water spot. Very similar to "foulard", but heavier.
Uses: Dresses, suits, ensembles, dresses and coats, cravats, ties, scarves, blouses, jacket and coat linings.

Taffeta
Fibre: SIlk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Usually plain with a fine cross rib.
Characteristics: A cloth supposed to have originated in Iran (Persia) ad was called "taftah" (a fine silk fabric) - (in 16th century, became a luxury for women's wear). It is made in plain colours, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk will not wear, as long as other high quality silks, since weighting is given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods will split or crack.
Uses: All kinds of after 5 wear, dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips, ribbons, blouses, umbrella fabric. It is quite a dressy fabric.

Faille Taffeta
Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.

Paper Taffeta
Plain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish.

Pompadour Taffeta
Originally executed in silk. Often has large floral designs in velvet or pile on a Taffeta ground. Occasionally stripes are used instead of flowers. Today it is made with manufactured fibres.

Shot Taffeta
Usually plain weave, woven with one colour in the warp and another colour in the filling, which gives the fabric an iridescent look. If fabric is moved in the light this colour changes. Silk version of chambray.

Tissue Taffeta
Plain weave, very light weight and transparent.

Warp-print Taffeta
Usually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when design is distorted as fabric is woven.

Tricot
Fibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Knit, warp knitted. Vertical wales on surface and more or less crosswise ribs on the back.
Characteristics: Has a thin texture, made from very fine or single yarns. Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very run-resistant).
Uses: Underwear, sportswear, bathing suits, gloves.

Tulle
Fibre: Silk, nylon, cotton.
Weave: Guaze, knotted, leno, made on a lace machine.
Characteristics: Derived name from Tulle, France. First made by Machine in 1768. Has a hexagonal mesh and is stiff. It is difficult to launder. Comes is white and colours, and is very cool, dressy, and delicate.
Uses: It is a stately type of fabric when used for formal wear, and weddings. It is also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.

Tussah
Fibre: Silk.
Weave: Usually plain but also in twill.
Characteristics: Made from wild or uncultivated silkworms. It is coarse, strong, and uneven. Dull lustre and rather stiff. Has a rough texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in colour and it is difficult to bleach. It usually doesn't take an even dye colour. Wears well and becomes more rough looking with wear. It wrinkles a little, but not as much as some. Various weights. Appears in filament and staple form.
Uses: In lighter weights, dresses. In heavier weights, coats and suits and ensembles.

Velvet
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and worsted.
Weave: Pile, made with an extra warp yarn.
Characteristics: Mostly made with a plain back but some with a twill. Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or cotton back. Terms comes from the Latin "vellus", meaning a fleece or tufted hair. Comes in many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet wears fairly well and is inexpensive. The cheaper cloths give little service and look well only a few times before beginning to deteriorate. Better velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, and drapes well. Has to be handled with care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one way. For the maximum amount of depth in the colour, cut with the pile running up. it also wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be cut with very simple lines in the garment, so not to destroy the beauty of the fabric. It has the tendency to add weight to the figure.
Uses: All types of after 5 wear, at home wear, draperies, upholstering.

Cisele Velvet
A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.

Faconne Velvet
Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.

Lyons Velvet
A stiff, thick pile velvet. Used for hats, coat collars, also for suits, coats and dresses, when thick velvets are fashionable.

Nacre Velvet
The back is of one colour and the pile of another, so that it gives a changeable, pearly appearance.

Transparent Velvet (Chiffon Velvet)
Lightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.

Panne Velvet
Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high lustre made possible by a tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now often made as knit fabric.

Plush
Velvet or velveteen where the pile is 1/8" thick or more. e.g. Cotton velour, hat velour, plush "fake furs".

Utrecht Velvet
Originated in Utrecht, Holland where it was made of silk. It was pressed and crimped to produce a raised effect. Today both mohair and silk are used.

Velvet Satin
A satin weave is used as the base for this luxurious figured silk, made with a cut pile effect.

SPECIALTY FIBRE

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Alpaca
Fibre: True alpaca is a hair fibre form the Alpaca animal, a member of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon.
Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights.
Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. It is very rich and silky with considerable lustre and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used, it is inclined to be boardy. It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibres or imitated by other fibres - e.g. orlon. Alpaca is found in white, black, fawn or gray. The fibres are less coarse than those of the llama but are higher in tensile strength.
Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.
Uses: Elegant evening gowns, draperies, or upholstery.

Angora Goat
Fibre: The clipped fibre of the living animal is called mohair.
Weave: Various weaves and knitted.
Characteristics: Scoured mohair appears smooth and white. It varies in fineness and is highly resilient, very strong and has high lustre. It's value is determined by it's lustre and not it's softness.
Uses: Used extensively in industries such as carpet, upholstery, curtain and automobile cloth.

Angora Rabbit
Fibre: Hair from the angora rabbit. It is indigenous to Asia Minor and Turkey. Often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects.
Weave: Various weaves and knitted.
Characteristics: Long, very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as angora rabbit's hair. This fur fibre is one of the finest.
Uses: Used mostly in knit wear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits to give a softer feel.

Beaver
Characteristics: Mostly found in Europe and America. Soft, silky, shiny, lending itself to textile use.
Uses: Fur coats, trimming fur and fabric garments.

Camel Hair
Fibre: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool.
Weave: Twill or plain.
Characteristics: Bactrian Species of the Chinese and Mongolian deserts. Underhair is best. It is light weight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black colour. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if blended.
Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some very expensive oriental rugs. It is also used in (fine) overcoating, topcoating, hosiery and transmission belts which will withstand dampness and moisture.

Cashmere (Kashmir)
Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan and Outer Mongolia. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. Natural fibre is white, black, brown or gray but can be died a variety of shades. Comes in different weights.
Uses: The textile industry is only interested in the soft fibres. Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses. Often combed and sold in tops and noils.

Cordoban Leather
Characteristics: Goat skin, simply-tanned. The art of preparing this leather came from Cordoba where the craftsmen who were allowed to use it for shoes in the Middle ages were called cordwainers.

Fox
Characteristics: Colour varies from black to red, silver, silver-gray and white. Uses: Scarves, muffs, jackets, coats, trimmings, also to provide softness in wool blends for textile industry.

Guanaco
Characteristics: Indigenous to Southern Argentina. Produced fleece of the most glorious natural honey beige colour. Very soft.

Hare or Jackrabbit
Characteristics: Hair texture is wooly.
Uses: Felting.

Llama
Characteristics: Found mainly in South America. Colour may from white to brown and black. This fibre has impressive lustre and warmth and is very light weight.

Mohair
Fibre: From the angora goat. Some has cotton warp and mohair filling (sometimes called brilliantine). Imitation mohair made from wool or a blend.
Weave: Plain or twill or knitted.
Characteristics: Angora goat is one of the oldest animals known to man. It is 2 1/2 times as strong as wool. Goats are raised in S.Africa, Western Asia, turkey, and neighbouring countries. Some are in the U.S.A. Fabric is smooth, glossy, and wiry. Has long wavy hair. Also made in a pile fabric of cut and uncut loops similar to frieze with a cotton and wool back and mohair pattern. - Similar to alpaca.
Uses: Linings, pile fabrics, suitings, upholstery fabrics, braids, dress materials, felt hats, and sweaters.

Muskrat
Characteristics: Mostly found in North America. The thick blue-gray, which resembles the beaver's, has fibres that are extremely fine.
Uses: Primarily used by the fur industry.

Nutria
Characteristics: Mainly found in South America. Beautiful, silky, fine belly undergrowth.
Uses: Primarily used by the fur industry but the textile industry often uses fibres in blends emphasizing softness.

Opossum
Characteristics: Can be found in Australia, Southern USA and Argentina. white face and fur that is loose, grayish and white-tipped.
Uses: Pelting used chiefly as trimming for cloth coats.

Rabbit or Coney
Characteristics: Wild rabbits have brownish or gray colours. Tame ones range in colour from white to black.
Uses Coats and trimmings.

Raccoon
Characteristics: Native American. The fur is grayish-brown and black.
Uses: Sportswear. Pelt is used for trimmings for cloth and fur coats. Only the wooly fibre is used for textile purposes.

Vair
Characteristics:Thought to be the fur of the squirrel, one of the most valuable furs of the middle ages.

Vicuna
Characteristics: Fleece is reddish brown, shading to white on the belly.
Uses: Textile industry uses the fibres to manufacture the softest coat cloth in the world.

Weasel
Uses: The fur industry uses nearly all the species of the weasel family in making coats, trimmings, capes etc. The textile industry uses large amounts of the fine fibres.

PLANT FIBRE

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Abaca
Characteristics: This vegetable leaf fibre is derived from the Musa textilis plant. It is mainly grown in the Philippines but is also found, in smaller amounts, in Africa, Malaysia, Indonesia and Costa Rica. The fibre is obtained from the outer layer of the leaf. Processing occurs when it is separated mechanically decorticated into lengths varying from 3 to 9 feet. Abaca is very strong and has great luster. It is very resistant to damage from salt water.
Uses: Cordage.

Art Linen
Fibre: Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or coloured. Has a soft finish.
Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.

Coir
Characteristics: This seed fibre is obtained from the husk of the coconut.
Uses:Brush-making, door mats, fish nets, cordage.

Canvas
Fibre: Linen, cotton.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made from plied yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the gray state but some is dyed for different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh.
Uses: Tents, sails, mail bags, sacks, covers, etc. Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.

Crash
Fibre: Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is strong, irregular in diameter but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.
Uses: Towelling, suitings, dresses, coats.

Damask
Fibre: Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds.
Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom.
Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality. Launders well and holds a high lustre - particularly in linen.
- Price range varies a great deal. There are two types of damask table cloths:
1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count is usually around 200.
2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. This gives a much greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from 165 to 400.
- The quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use.

Flax
Characteristics: This fibre is taken from the stalk of the Linum usitaatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fibre and is cylindrical in shape. It's length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on average is between 15 and 25 inches. It's colour is usually off-white or tan and due to it's natural wax content, flax has excellent luster. It is considered to be the strongest of the vegetable fibres and is highly absorbent, allowing moisture to evaporate with speed. It conducts heat well and can be readily boiled. It's washability is great, however, it has poor elasticity and does not easily return to it's original shape after creasing.
Uses: Apparel fabric. When processed into fabric it is called linen. It is also used for tablecloths, napkins, doilies, twine, aprons, fishing tackle, and nets.

Hemp
Hemp is a bast fibre that was probably used first in Asia. The fibre is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colours. The hemp fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial fibres may be several inches long, while fibres used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew. Coarse hemp fibres and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins. In Italy, fine hemp fibres are used for interior design and apparel fabrics.

Henequen
Characteristics: It is obtained from the leaves of the Agave fourcroydes plant, which is native to Mexico. It is produced by mechanically decorticating the leaves into strands from 4 to 5 feet.

Huckaback
Fibre: Linen, cotton.
Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colours, or coloured borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.
Uses: Mostly used for towelling.

Ixtle
Fibre Linen, cotton.
Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colours, or coloured borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.

Jute and Burlap
Jute is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray colour, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of fibre held together by gummy substances that are pectinaceous in character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in colour. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to microorganisms and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric.

Simulated Linen Fabrics
Various rayons, cottons, synthetics, and blends are woven with threads of uneven thickness to simulate linen. They lack the cool, firm, yet soft feel of linen. Their irregularities are too even when seen beside real linen.

Kapok
A seed fibre or floss obtained from the cotton tree. It is used chiefly for stuffing.

Kenaf
It is a bast fibre that is obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant. The stalk of this plant varies in height from 8 to 12 feet and is about half an inch in diameter. Kenaf is mostly produced in India and Pakistan but also grows in Africa, South East Asia, Indonesia, Russia, Mexico, the Philippines, Cuba and the United States. It is mainly used for cordage, canvas, and sacking. It is sometimes used as a substitute for Jute.

Ramie
Ramie is a natural woody fibre resembling flax. Also know as rhea and China grass, it is obtained from a tall shrub grown in South-east Asia. China, Japan, and southern Europe. The fibre is stiff, more brittle than linen, and highly lustrous. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. Ramie fibres are long and very fine. They are white and lustrous and almost silk-like in appearance. The strength of ramie is excellent and varies from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per denier. Elastic recovery is low and elongation is poor. Ramie lends itself to general processing for textile yarns, but its retting operation is difficult and costly, making the fibre unprofitable for general use. When combed, ramie is half the density of linen, but much stronger, coarser, and more absorbent. It has permanent luster and good affinity for dyes; it is affected little by moisture. Ramie is used as filling yarn in mixed woolen fabrics, as adulteration with silk fibres, and as a substitute for flax. The China-grass cloth use by the Chinese is made of Ramie. This fibre is also useful for rope, twine, and nets.

Redwood Bark
This fibre is obtained from the bark of the California redwood tree. It is used for insulation and sometimes for blending with other fibres such as wool and cotton.

Sisal
Sisal is one of a group of fibres obtained from the leaves of plants. It is obtained from a plant that belongs to the Agave family and is raised in Mexico, especially in the Yucatan peninsula. The fibre is also cultivated in Africa, Jva, and some areas of South America. Sisal can be dyed bright colours, by means of both cotton dyes and acid dyes normally used for wool. It is important in the manufacture of such items as matting, rough handbags, ropes and cordage and carpeting.

Sunn
This bast fibre is obtained from the Crotalaria juncea plant. The fibres grow from 4 to 5 feet long and are retted and prepared like other bast fibers. Sunn contains over 80% cellulose and is highly resistant to moisture and meldew. This fibre is mainly produced in India although small amounts are grown in Uganda. It is mainly used for cordage, rug yarns, and paper. In India it is also used for fish nets and is sometimes used as asubstiture for jute in bagging cloths.

Urena
This bast fibre comes from the Urena lobata plant. In it's wild state it grows 3 to 7 feet high and when cultivated can grow as tall as 13 feet. The fibre strands are cream coloured and have a wonderful luster. This fibre is mainly grown in the Congo area although small amounts are also raised in Brazil, India and the Phillipines. Urena has the same uses as jute.

MISCELLANEOUS FIBRE

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Alginate
Characteristics: Alginate was first produced from seaweed in 1940. It is a product of a neutralizing reaction between alginic acid and caustic soda. It is non-flammable. When combined with other fibres, it takes on a sheer appearance.
Uses:Garnishing, camouflage and netting.

Amazon
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: It is very soft.

Charmeuse
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: Originated as a French lightweight silk that was recognized for it's supreme luster and drapability. Today it is made out of rayon, cotton and manufactured fibres and has a dull back. It is found in a variety of solids and prints.
Uses:Pajamas, dresses, and draping gowns.

Crinoline
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is a very loosely woven fibre with high rigidity. It is smooth, stiff, and has excellent strength. It's comes in a variety of shades from white to black.
Uses: Stiffening, making interlining for hat shapes.

Eolienne
Characteristics: It's name comes from the term Eolus, which is Greek for God of Winds. This airy fibre has a low thread count and is very delicate. It is lightweight and is very lustrous.

Eskimo Cloth
Weave: Satin or Twill
Characteristics: It is an over-coating with a thick nap. It is usually dyed so as to create wide stripes.
Uses: Over-coating.

Etamine
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It was originally made of wool, cotton or linen and used for sifting. It is now a worsted fabric with a very short nap and light in weight.
Uses: Clothing.

Gattar
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: It is made with a cotton filling and a silk warp. It is only found in solid colours and is known for it's elegant luster and excellent drapability.
Uses: Elegant evening wraps.

Georgette
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Usually done in silk but can also be found in manufactured fibres. It is characterized by it's crispness, body and outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face.

Granada
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It's name is derived from the Latin word Granum, which refers to the grainy quality of the textile. This granular quality is achieved by a broken twill weave. It is made of a cotton warp and alpaca or mohair filling. This fibre is exceptionally fine.

Grenadine
Weave: Leno
Characteristics: This fine fibre originated in Italy. It can be made in various fibres such as cotton, wool, silk or manufactured fibres. It is well know for it's stiffness.
Uses: Women's clothing.

Henrietta
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally consisted of worsted filling and silk warp. Today, it can be found in a variety of blends. It has excellent drapability. It's weight and quality vary with fibres, however, when created with silk and wool it is lustrous and soft.
Uses: Dress goods.

Herringbone Twill
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It was named after the skeleton of the Herring as this is what the fibre pattern resembles. It is usually created in wool and has varying qualities. It is also known as Arrowhead.
Uses: Suitings, top coatings, sports coats.

Hickory Cloth
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It is characterized by it's excellent durability. It is warp striped and comes in a variety of colours. It usually is created with cotton.
Uses: Work clothes.

Honey Comb
Weave: Float
Characteristics: It's name comes from a French word meaning birds nest. It's patterns are regular and open. Honey Comb is found in many fabrics and is also known as Diamond Weave.
Uses: Draperies, jackets and women's clothing.

Hong Kong
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: This is a ribbed fabric usually found in plain colours. It comes in a variety of qualities but the best type is made out of silk.

Kasha (Casha)
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally made of Vicuna. Today the Vicuna is considered an endangered species so Kasha is made from either a blend of cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.
Uses: Clothing.

Longcloth
Characteristics: It is one fo the first fabrics created in especially long strips. It's luster is moderate but it's quality is fairly high. This cotton and cotton blend fabric is very soft.

Luster Fabric
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is created using fibres with high luster such as worsted or mohair yarn. Warp threads are used to create this fabric. Cotton is usually the main component, however, sometimes manufactured fibres are used.

Macrame
Weave: knotted lace
Characteristics:Originally made in Arabia but later made in Italy. Used to manufacture shawls and scarfs.

Marble Cloth
Characteristics: Originally made of silk and wool. Today it is produced with natural and manufactured fibres.

Marocain
Characteristics: It is ribbed with a wavy look, resembling Crepe. It is made of silk, wool and manufactured fibres.
Uses:Suits.

Marseilles
Characteristics:Named after it's city of origin in France. It is identified by it's raised woven pattern. This double-faced textile has a quilted appearance that is very elegant. usually found in white, but occasionally other colours are used.

Non-Crushable Linen
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is very versatile and has excellent washability and durability. It is treated so as to create a high resistance to wrinkling. This finish provides greater resilience and elasticity.

Oilcloth
Characteristics: Originally, textiles such as cotton were coated in oil to create resistance to moisture. Now, resins from plastics are used instead of oil. Olefin is a very versatile fibre with excellent flexibility.
Uses:Waterproof garments, book bags, belts, bibs, pencil cases, luggage, surgical supplies.

Ondule
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It's name is derived from a French word meaning wavy. This wavy effect is created by weaving the warp irregularly. It is created in silk, cotton and manufactured fibres.

Osnaberg
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Osnaberg is characterized by it's strength and durability. It is medium to heavyweight. It is coarse and varies in both colour and print. May or may not be treated with a finish. If it is finished, it is also know as Hopsacking or Crash.

Ottoman
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originated in Turkey. Was originally made only in silk. Today it can be found in wool, silk, or manufactured fibres. It is firm and has a high luster. It is characterized by horizontal ribs. Another type of Ottoman with heavy ribbing is also found in Satin Weave.

Pekin
Weave: Novelty
Characteristics: It has a very fine quality. It is characterized by it's vertical stripes of identical width that have equal widths between them. It consists of Cotton, wool, silk, or elaborate velvet stripes that are separated by satin.

Qiviut
Characteristics:The name comes from an Eskimo word meaning 'down'. This fibre is obtained from the Arctic Musk Ox. It is lustrous, soft, durable and free of oils.

Radium
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originated in Lyons France. It has high luster and is smooth and soft.

Ratine
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originated in Italy. Ratine is a French word that means rough. This fibre has an uneven, pebbled surface. It comes in solid colours and prints and is executed in silk, cotton or wool.

Romaine
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is a lightweight textile with a low thread count. it is lustrous and has an uneven textural appearance. It was originally made os ilk but is found today in rayon, acetate, wool, silk and manufactured fibres.

Ruche
Characteristics:Fluted or crimped lace or gauze, used as a trimming

Sanglier
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It's name is French for wild boar. It was named for it's texture which is compact and wiry. It also has a very rough finish. It is usually created with mohair and worsted fibres.

Serpentine Crepe
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It's filling has a twisted thread therefor giving it a Crepy effect. The size of the Crepe thread determines the texture. It is executed in a variety of fibres including manufactured ones.

Shadowy Organdy
Characteristics: It is lightweight, crisp and sheer. The shadowy effect is produced when one colour is repeatedly printed on itself.

Zephyr
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It's name comes from the ancient God of the Winds Zephrus. The quality of the textile is airy and can be found today in wool, cotton and manufactured fibres.

MAN - MADE FIBRE

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Acetate
Fibre: Cellulose
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Acetate, one of the first manufactured fibres is soft and has a crisp feel. It has the lustrous appearance of silk and excellent drapability. It is not a strong fibre, as it's resistance to abrasion is poor. It does resist shrinkage, moths, and mildew and does not absorb moisture readily. It's yarns are pliable and supple and will always sprig back to their original shape. It is fast drying and when heated becomes more pliable. Acetone and alcohol dissolve acetate fibres. Special dyes are required if it is be coloured. Today Acetate can be found in a variety of colours.
Uses: Organic solvents such as perfume and nail polish remover. Clothing, uniforms, lingerie, carpets, bathing suits, draperies, automobile upholstery, fillings for pillows, interlinings.

Acrylic
Characteristics: It is manufactured fibres of acrylonitrile. It is a durable fibre with a soft, woolly feel. It has an uneven surface, making it different from most manufactured fibres. It comes in a variety of colours, and can be dyed easily. It is resistant to sun and chemicals.
Uses: Often used as a replacement for wool.

Aramid
Characteristics:This strong fibre does not have a melting point and is flame proof. It retains it's shape, even at high temperatures and is resistant to stretch.

Asbestos
Uses: Often used as a replacement for wool.

Charvet
Weave: Herringbone
Uses: It is a soft, silky fibre with high luster and a warp face. It originated as a silk fibre but is now made of manufactured fibres.

Elastomer
Characteristics: It is a synthetic rubber that can be stretched to at least three times it’s original length. Once the exerted pull force is released, this fibre returns to it’s original length.

Latex
Characteristics: Natural and synthetic fibres are made from this raw material. Natural Latex is a white milky emulsion.

Manufactured Fibre
Characteristics: It’s commercial use is still fairly recent. It was only one hundred years ago that Manufacture Fibres were utilized in this fashion, beginning with artificial silk in 1889. It is very flexible and versatile and can be cared for easily. It is wrinkly free, flame resistant and very comfortable.

Modacrylic
Characteristics:It is very resilient and soft. It retains it's shape and is resistant to chemicals, flames and abrasion.

Nylon
Characteristics: This manufactured fibre is very strong and is resistant to both abrasion and damage from many chemicals. It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to it's original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some dyes, and resistant to moths and other insects, water, perspiration and standard dry-cleaning agents.
Uses:Women's hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and sweaters, rugs and carpets, tents, sleeping bags, duffle bags, racquet strings, fishing lines, sails, tire cord, machine belting, filter netting, fish nets, laminates, and ropes.

Olefin Fibre
Characteristics: It is very lightweight yet strong. It is resistant to abrasion, soil, stains and deterioration from mildew, and damage from chemicals. It is also quick drying and colourfast.
Uses: Various uses such as apparel, interior parts of automobiles, furniture and carpets.

PBI
Characteristics:Highly resistant to flame. When exposed to heat, is prone to low shrinkage. Has exceptional thermal and chemical stability.

Polyester
Characteristics:It is an extremely resilient fibre that is smooth, crisp and particularly springy. It's shape is determined by heat and it is insensitive to moisture. It is lightweight, strong and resistant to creasing, shrinking, stretching, mel dew and abrasion. It is readily washable and is not damaged by sunlight or weather and is resistant to moths and mildew.
Uses: Vary, depending on blend.

Protein Base Fibres
Fibre: Cellulose
Characteristics: This cellulose fibre is highly absorbent. It’s drapability and dyeability are excellent and it is fairly soft.

Rayon
Fibre: Cellulose
Characteristics: This cellulose fibre is highly absorbent. It’s drapability and dyeability are excellent and it is fairly soft. Rayon does have a tendency to shrink but does not melt in high temperatures. It is resistant to moths and is not affected by ordinary household bleaches and chemicals.
Uses:Clothing, draperies, upholstery, carpets, tablecloths, bedspreads, automobile tires, conveyor belts, hose.

Spandex
Characteristics: It is an elastomeric fibre that can be stretched up to five times it’s original length without being damaged. It is lightweight and flexible. It resists deterioration from perspiration, detergent ad body oils. It is characterized by it’s strength and durability.
Uses: Main uses are athletic wear and foundation garments.

Sulfur
Characteristics:It is a nonconductive fibre that is retardant to flame. It has excellent resistance to a variety of damaging chemicals and severe temperatures. This high-performance fibre retains it's supreme strength, even in unfavorable conditions.

Vivyon
Characteristics:This is a non-toxic fibre with a high resistance to chemicals. It softens at low temperatures.

SELF STITICHED DOUBLE CLOTHS

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Here stitching is done by either dropping a face end under a back pick or by lifting a back end over a face pick or both.

Face Weave = 2/2 twill
Back Weave= 2/2 twill
Warp Arrangement= 1Face1Back
Weft Arrangement= 1Face1Back

1. Insert Face Weave 2/2 between Face ends and Face Picks(X)

2. Insert Back Weave 2/2 between Back ends and Back Picks (\)

3. Raise all Face ends over Back Picks ( 0)

4. Tyeing: Back ends are raised over face pics in between two face floats.

CUT EFFECT IN INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTHS

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This is achieved by floating on the surface and on the underside of a plain ground cloth, extra warp and weft which are comparatively thicker than those used for ground fabric and which cover it completely.

The Fine even ends and picks weave plain and form firm structure through which the odd yarn elements are interchanged.

1. Introduce plain weave on even ends and even picks (\)

2. Raise all odd ends over all the picks corresponding to the solid portion of the motif so as to make all odd ends on face- corresponding to motif.

3. At motif the odd picks should be on the underside of the cloth therefore raise all even ends at odd picks at motif ( X).

4. At blank portion of the motif, drop all the ends on odd picks and odd ends even on even picks.

FIGURED INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTHS

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1. Simple Interchanging Structures

The least complex structure in this group consists of two layers which differ in colors and which by alternating between face and back, produce a reversible design in the cloth of two colours.

a. Insert Plain weave with dark ends, dark picks and Light ends, Light Picks

b. To make it dark, raise all dark ends over light picks.

Similarly for Light ends

- Insert Plain weave with dark ends, dark picks and light ends, light picks

- to make it light, raise all light ends over dark picks

We can combine the two weaves as shown in the figure to get a particular motif.

2. Combination of Fine and Coarse Fabrics

Figured effect can also be produced by interchanging a fine fabric layer with a coarse one.

SOME COMMON INDIAN FABRICS

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Khadi Cotton
Bandani Cotton
Linen
Poplin
Vial Cotton
Teri Rubia
2x2 Rubia Cotton
Lizzy Bizzy Cotton:50% cotton 50% Polyster
Polyester
Bafta Cotton
Lining cotton
Floral cotton
Small Pleads cotton
Medium Pleads cotton
Cotton Silk
Khadi Silk
Bandani Silk
Raw Silk
Pure Silk
Crepe Silk
Polyester Silk
Satin Silk
Crepe Back Satin
Chikan kari
Chiffon:
Georgette
Artificial Silk Sari fabric
Silk Sari fabric
Sari Border
Curtain Fabric
Crepe
Net Fabric
Tissue
Wool

TERRY PILE STRUCTURES

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The terry pile is also known as Turkish Towelling.

It is a class of warp pile structure in which certain warp ends are made to form loops on the surface of the cloth.

Only one series of weft threads is used but the warp consists of two series of threads the ground and the pile.

The former produces the ground cloth from which the loops formed by the pile ends project.

The loops may be formed on one side only or on both sides of the cloth thus producing single sided and double sided structures respectively.

Any one pile thread may alternate between the face and back of the cloth.

The structure is eminenlty suitable for towelling purposes as the long, free floats of yarn, if made from absorbant material, are capable of wicking up readily large amount of moisture.

The material best suited for this purpose is cotton which not only absorbs moisture easily but also stands up well to frequent and severe laundering which the towelling fabrics have to undergo.

Formation of the Pile

The formation of terry pile depends upon the creation of gap between the fell of the cloth and two succeeding picks of weft.

The gap, the length of which depends on the height of the pile required, results in the formation of uninterlaced warp floats.

To form the gap two successive picks are beaten up short of the true cloth fell and produce a temporary false fell.

On the third pick of the group full beat up takes place. With this the three picks are pushed forward together to form the true fell projection.

During this action, the three picks are capable of sliding between the ground ends which are kept very taut.

However they are not able to slide similarly between the pile ends, first they are structurally locked with them and secondly because the pile warp at that moment is slack.

Therefore as they are pushed forward after the third pick, they pull a length of pile warp from the beam and at the same time force the excess length of pile yarn in from of them into a loop.

Thus in this construction, two beams are necessary. The ground beam is heavily tensioned while the pile beam is only under slight tension.

TERRY WEAVE

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To construct a terry weave, let us take a 3 pick terry.

1. 1st end will be taken as 1-down-2-up
2. 2nd end ground will be taken as 1-up-2-down
3. 1st pile is secured in between 1 and 2 and when 3rd is beaten
4. 2nd Pile back is also obtained in the same way.

Similarly one canm make for 4, 5, and 6 picks terry

Cloth Particulars

Pile warp two ends of 60/2 tex, ground warp 66/2 tex
Weft 38 tex.

EPC= 20, PPC= 22

500 m of pile and 120 m of ground warp is requried to producing 100m of terry.

TERRY ORNAMENTATION OR FANCY TERRY STRUCTURES

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Terry Ornamentation

If the loops are formed on both sides of the cloth, one side may be colored independently of the other.

In producing more elaborate designs, the pile yarns are caused to form loops first on the one side and then on the other side of the cloth.

This system may be employed with one or two series of pile threads, and styles may be produced ranging from simple checks to complex figures.

One Series of Pile Threads

Two Series of Pile Threads

How to create Stripes and Checks Using Two series of Pile threads

TERRY TOWEL CALCULATIONS

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Assumptions

Number of Ground Warp Ends = 694
Ground Warp Count = 25 tex x 2
Warp Crimp = 8%
Weft Yarn count = 34 tex
Number of Pile Warp Ends = 576
Length of pile part = 102 cm
Pile Ratio (for pile height)= 52:10 (52 cm of pile warp for 10 cm of cloth)
Pile Yarn count = 30 tex x 2
Length of plain part = 4 cm
Picks per cm = 20
Reed Width = 58.4 cm
Grey Length ( Pile and Plain Part) = 106 cm
Fringe Length = 2 cm

How to Determine the Weight of a ground Warp for Terry Towel

Weight of Ground Warp = Weight of ground warp in grey cloth + weight of ground warp in the fringe.

Weight of ground warp in grey cloth = (length of grey cloth x warp crimp factor x no of ground warp threads x warp yarn count in tex )/ (100 x 1000)
= (106 x 1.08 x 694 x 25 x 2)/(100 x 1000)
= 397.25 gms

Weight of Ground Warp in Fringe (here the warp crimp is not involved) = (Fringe length x no of ground warp x yarn count in tex)/ (100x 1000)
= (2 x 694 x 25 x 2)/ (100 x 1000) = 0.69 gms

So Ground Warp Weight = 397.25 +.69 = 397.94 grams.

How to Determine the Weight of Pile Warp in Terry Towel

Weight of Pile Warp = weight of pile warp in pile part + that in plain part + that in fringe

a. Weight of pile warp in pile part ( Pile ratio: 52:10)
=( Length of pile part x number of pile threads x pile length x yarn count in tex) / (100 x 1000)
= (102 x 576 x 52 x 30 x 2)/(100 x 1000)
= 183.31 g

b. Weight of Pile warp in Plain Part
=( Length of plain fabric x number of pile threads x crimp factor x yarn count)/ (100 x 1000)
= (4 x 576 x 1.08 x 30 x 2)/(100 x 1000)
= 1.49 g

c. Weight of Pile warp in fringe ( No crimp , no loop )
= (fringe length x number of pile threads x yarn count)/(100 x 1000)
= (2 x 576 x 30 x 2)/(100 x 1000)
= 0.69 g
Weight of pile warp = 183.31+ 1.49 + 0.69 = 185.49

How to Determine the Weight of Weft in Terry Towel

Weight of Weft Yarn

= (Total no of weft threads x reed width x yarn count)/(100 x 1000)
(Reed width is equal to the length of one weft yarn)
= (106 x 20 x 58.4 x 34)/(100 x 1000)
= 42.09 g