My Weaving View

WEAVING OF LIFE

Life is but a weaving
between my God and me;
I may not choose the colors,
He knows what they should be.

For He can view the pattern
Upon the upper side,
While I can see it only
On this, the under side.

Sometimes He weaveth sorrow,
Which seemeth strange to me;
But I will trust His judgment,
And work on faithfully.

'Tis He who fills the shuttle,
He knows just what is best;
So I shall weave in earnest
And leave with Him the rest.

At last, when life is ended,
With Him I shall abide,
And I may view the pattern
Upon the upper side,

Then I shall know the reason
Why pain with joy entwined,
Was woven in the fabric
Of life that God designed.

.......... Rajput Banna

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Fiber To Fabrics Textile

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SOME REVISION OF WEAVING

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Plain Weaves Derivatives

DEEK TEXTILES NOTES

                                    PlainWeaveDerivatives

                         Ribs & Basket, Analysis of plain weave fabric

The extension of the plain weave can proceed either vertically, grouping together several picks in the same shed and resulting in warp ribs; or, horizontally with groups of neighboring ends working together and producing weft ribs; or, in both directions simultaneously, resulting in mat, hopsack or basket weave.

Warp Rib

 

Weft Rib

 

Hopsack

 

Fancy Basket Weave

I

 

 

II

 

            

MULTIPLE LAYER WEAVE

By Anil Kumar ( NIFT-Chennai/DEEK TEXTILES member)

APPAREL AND HOME FURNISHING FORECAST

International Spring/Summer 2010

Welcome to the future of fashion & home furnishing this Spring/Summer. Here, you'll find the colors, print directions, weave directions, sports directions, swatches in the International market that will turn heads this coming Spring/Summer 2010


MEGA TREND : EXPRESSIONISM*

FASHION
color
print visuals
swatch visuals
textures
weave visuals
illustrations
knits & sports wear directions
life style preview


HOME
colors
print visuals
swatch visuals
textures
weave visuals
life style preview


*NOTE : FORECASTED BY NCTD

COMMON YARN FAULT IN MAN MADE FIBRES

1. Slubs:

Slub like thick faults seriously mar the appearance of fabrics made from manmade fibres. The following measures can be taken

A. In Blends with cotton

a. properly select the cotton component
b. ensure proper grinding of wirepoints at cards
c. regularly check the ringframe drafting system.

B. In 100% manmade fibres

a. Ensure adequate number of doublings
b. avoid too wide a roller setting and inadequate weighting on rollers.
c. Select correctly the fibres in regard to their compatibility in length.

2. Crackers

This defect is characterised by the cracking sound produced when the yarn is pulled. The sound is produced due to sudden rupture of fibres curled around the yarn.

- Crackers are caused mainly by the presence of very long fibres due to improper cutting of the two.

- They can also be caused due to high vairability in the elongation of the constituent fibres in the blend.

- Ensure wider roller setting in the back zone, adequate roller weighting and avoid too narrow a spacing between the aprons.

- It is helpful to have low roving twist and higher spinning tension through the use of heavier traveller.

3. Neps

This can also mar the appearance of a fabric

- In man made fibres longer and finer fibres tend to produce more neps.
- Other reasons of neps are
- Excessing beating of fibres in the blow room
- Loading of licker-in or cylinder at card
- Blunt wire points on various carding elements
- excessive lap weight

4. Fluffy Yarn

In general presence of short fibres and proneness to static accumulation tend to produce this defect.

The fault can be corrected by maintaining proper atmospheric conditions and reducing the fluff on roving.

5. Smoky Yarn

- The yarn containing synthetic fibres get smoky through long exposure of the running bobbin in a dirty atmosphere in the ring spinning system.

- Installation of smoke filters in H-plant can correct the problem

- Use of roving build can check this defect.

DETERMINATION OF ABRASION RESISTANCE OF FABRICS

Plain Abrasion Resistance

Apparatus - Universal Wear Tester

Prior to test, the fabric should be Conditioned to moisture equilibrium from the dry side, in the standard atmosphere of 65+-2% relative humidity and 27+-2 deg C temperature. The test should be carried under standard atmospheric conditions.

Method for determination of plane Abrasion Resistance

1. Cut five circular test specimens of 112 mm in diameter, taking care to take specimens from areas containin the same wales or courses in knitted fabric or the same warp or weft yarn in woven fabric.

2. Set the instrument for inflated diaphram test.

3. Place the specimen over the rubber diaphram in smooth condition and clamp the specimen in place without disturbing it.

4. Place the abrasive paper on the abradent plate under sufficient tension to be held smooth and in such a position that the contact pin, reaching through a hole in the abradent is even with the surface of the abradent. In the absence of any specific material specification , zero emery polishing paper should be used as the abradent.

5. Set the air pressure under the diaphram and load on the abradent plate. In the absence of any specific material specifications, the air pressure should be 0.3kg/sq.cm (4 p.s.i.) and the load on the abradent should be 454 gm. Ensure that the air pressure control and contact between the inflated specimen and loaded abradent is in a state of equilibrium before abrasion is started. To ensure consistent inflation of the diaphragm, inflate to a higher air pressure ( 25 per cent) and then reduce the testing pressure.

6. If the unidirectional abrasion is desired, disengage the rotation mechanism of the specimen clamp and bring the specimen into the direction by turning and setting the clamp after the diaphragm has been inflated.

7. In the event that multi-directional abrasion is required, or if no specific indication as to the abrasion direction is given in the fabric specification, engage rotation mechanism of the specimen clamp.

8. Remove pills of matted fibres interfering with proper contact between specimen and abradent during the test if they cause a marked vibration of the abradent plate.

9. If the specimen slips in the clamp or the air pressure does not remain constant during the test or anomalous wear pattern is obtained, discard such individual measurements and test an additional specimen..

10. One of the following methods is selected for determination of end point as per test specifications:

a. Breakage of Thread: Abrade the specimen until all fibres in the centre of the abraded area are worn off so that the diaphragm and abradent head come into contact and the instrument automatically stops.

b. Removing a predetermined thickness of the material. Abrade the specimen using the electrical depth micrometer to determine the automatic end-point for removing a predetermined thickness of the material from the specimen.

11. Unless the continuous changing abrasion head is used, abradent paper is changed after every 300 cycles.

12. Report shall include the following information :

a. Type of abradent
b. Type of abrasion ( unidirectional or multi directional)
c. No. of cycles to reach the end point as determined by electrical contact.

CLOQUE OR CREPON EFFECT

In such fabrics a waved or cockled surface is produced.

The effect may be due to the weave structure, or the use of yarns with different shrinkage properties or both.

Normally the cockled appearance is achieved due to the use of high twisted yarns in one layer and low twised yarns in the other.

The highly twisted yarns form a net like construction through which the finely set structure composed of the low twist yarns is clearly visible.

The Open structure is achieved by the special arrangement of the threads which may be 3 low twist, 1 high twist in the warp and 4 low twist 1 high twist in the weft.





1. Insert plain weave on low twisted ends and picks
2. Insert plain weave on high twisted ends and picks

IMITATION BACKED CLOTHS

Any ordinary weave can be so modified as to produce a structure which very closly resembles a weft or a warp backed texture.

In this each thread interweaves regularly on both sides of the cloth.

This system has the advantage that a heavy single cloth is produced which has a fine surface appearance and is elastic and soft in handle.

Imitation Weft Backing ( reverse convention)

Basic Weave 2/5 twill



Insert 2/5 twill on alternate horizontal spaces


Imitation Warp Backing ( Normal Convention)



Insert 2/5 twill on alternate vertical spaces.

Thus it will be an imitation warp backing construction.

BACKED CLOTH WITH WADDED THREADS

In this construction the object is to obtain a n increased weight - by introducing a thick and cheap yarn between the face texture and the backing threads.

In wap backed cloths, the wadding threads are introduced in the weft and in weft backed cloth in the warp.

Weft Backed and Warp-Wadded Designs

Face Threads= 4/4
Back Weft= 1/7 down
Arrangement= 1Face1 Back, 1 ground 1 wadded.



1. Insert Face weave on face picks 4/4 on ground ends (X)
2.Insert Back weave 1/7 in between two face floats (\)
3. Raise all Face Picks over wadded ends.

Warp Backed and Weft Wadded Constructions

1. Face threads = 4/4
2. Back Threads = 1/7
3. Arrangement= 1 Face 1 Back, 1 Ground 1 Wadded



1. Insert Face Weave 4/4
2. Insert Back Weave 1/7 in between two face floats
3. Raise all face ends over wadded picks.

INTERCHANGING FIGURED BACKED CLOTHS

These cloths are chiefly used for blankets, dressing gowns and rugs.

The weave is the same in every part of the cloth and a weft surface is produced on both sides.
Interchanging Backed Cloths

The design is due to the manner in which differently coloured wefts are interchanged from one side to the other, a dark figure on light ground on one side corresponds to the light figure on a dark ground on the other side.

Common Fabric Particulars

Warp- Cotton

For a 4-thread weave
60/2 tex cotton warp, 9 ends/cm and 350 tex woollen weft, 19 picks per cm.

Weft Backed Construction ( Reversible)



In A

Dark Surface and Light Back

Face Picks--> Dark (3/1 twill)
Back Picks--> Light (1/3 twill)

In B

Light Surface and Dark Back

Face Picks--> Dark (1/3 twill)
Back Picks--> Light (3/1 twill)

By combining the two weaves, a design of two colors is formed.

Interchanging Warp Backed Cloths

Similarly warp backed cloths can be interchanged.

CENTRE STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH- CENTRE WARP STITCHING

The purpose of incentre stitching is to bind the two fabrics together with the central thread, which are finer than either the face of backing threads.

The two fabrics are less firmly united than with the self stitching and the cloth has a softer and fuller handle.

It is very useful in cloths in which there is a great difference either in the thickness or the color of back and face yarns.

1. Centre Warp Stitching

Face Weave = 2/2 twill
Back Weave= 2/2 twill
Warp Arrangement 4S4B1S



Steps:

a. Make face weave on face ends and face picks

b. Make Back weave on back ends and back picks

c. Raise all face ends over back picks

d. Raise centre ends over face picks where they are covered by two adjacent floats of the face warp indicated by $.

e. Lower centre ends on back picks where they are covered by two adjacent floats of the back warp (#)

f. Centre ends are raised over back picks.(^)

CENTER STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH- WEFT STITCHING

1. Insert Face weave on face ends and face picks and back weave on back ends and back picks .

2. Raise all face ends over centre picks (o)

3. Raise all face ends over back picks (X)

4. To achieve a face fabric stitch a face end must be dropped at a place where it is covered by two face wefts ($)

5. Similarly to achieve a back stitch a back end must be raised on centre pick at which it is covered by two back wefts ( shown by #)

INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTHS

Double Cloths can be joined together by interchanging fabric layers.

The interchanging of threads means that the series which actually alternates between the face and back of the cloth can no longer be designated as the face or back yarns because it will occasionally be the one and occasionally be the other.

Thus in a cloth in which the ends and picks are arranged in an alternate 1 black, 1 white order, the black cloth will form the face when all the black ends are raised over white picks and vice versa.

Interchanging Double Twill and Sateen Stripe Design

Twill




To Make Red

1. Make 2/1 twill Red on Red
2. Make 1/2 twill Blue on Blue
3. Raise all red ends over blue picks to make red

To Make Blue

1. Make 2/1 twill Blue on Blue
2. Make 1/2 twill Red on Red
3. Raise all blue ends over red picks

You can combine these two to make stripes and checks.

STANDARD WORSTED AND WOOL FIBRE

Agneline
Weave:Plain
Characteristics: A black woolen fabric with a very long nape. It is coarse and heavy. When stretched the fibres tighten and become water resistant.

Albert Cloth
Characteristics: It has a double layer of wool and is reversible. Faces and backs may vary in colour and pattern. Provides additional warmth and body.
Uses: Outerwraps.

Astrakhan
Fibre: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back.
Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caracul lambskin form the Astrakhan section of Russia.
Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.
Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.

Barathea
Fibre: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.
Weave: An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.
Characteristics: Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.

Beaver Cloth
Fibre: Wool. Also sotton and napped on both sides - double faced.
Weave: Twill and very heavily napped, and fulled.
Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine.
Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.

Bedford Cord
Fibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.
Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing.
Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Has various qualities and weights.
Uses: Suitings, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.

Birdseye
Fibre: Worsted.
Weave: Usually dobby.
Characteristics: Smooth, clear finish. Has small diamond-shaped figures with a dot in the centre of each. Pattern suggests the eye of a bird.
Uses: Fine quality suiting for men and women.

Blanket Cloth
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm.
Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.

Bolivia (Elysian)
Fibre: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair.
Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern.
Characteristics: Pile face which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights.
Uses: Cloakings and coatings and some suits.

Bombazine
Fibre: Usually has silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum" which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk.
Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade.

Boucle
Fibre: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibres.
Weave: Any weave, knit.
Characteristics: From the French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.
Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.

Broadcloth
Fibre: Wool. Also cotton and silk but very different from wool broadcloth.
Weave: Usually a twill with a two up and one down construction. Some also in the plain weave.
Characteristics: Has a napped face, closely sheared and polished, producing a silky gloss - in same group of fabrics as kersey, beaver cloth, melton. One way nap, must be handled like velvet when cutting. It comes in a variety of colours and weights. It is "dressy" fabric and must be handled with care - form fitting and drapes well.

Cavalry Twill
Fibre: Woolen or worsted.
Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill.
Characteristics: Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S. elastique but elastique is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave). Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal.
Uses: Riding habits, ski wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.

Challis (Chalys)
Fibre: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fibre, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.
Uses: Women's and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.

Cheviot
Fibre: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.
Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain).
Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crease and sags with wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a tweed.
Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.

Chinchilla
Fibre: Wool - also made in cotton, and some manmade and synthetics.
Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.
Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.
Uses: In wool, for coats. Dark shades in wool are most popular, particularly navy and black.

Covert
Fibre: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Made with two shades of colour e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) and filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Light in weight.
Uses: For overcoating for both men and women. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.

Crepe
Fibre: Woolen, worsted cotton, silk, man-made synthetics.
Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves.
Characteristics: Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harsh dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect.
Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.

Doeskin
Fibre: Wool and also rayon.
Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave.
Rayon: Twill weave and napped on one side, or a small satin-weave.
Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.

Donegal
Fibre: Wool - also in rayons and cottons.
Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill.
Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough and ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England.
Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a tailored, sporty look.

Duvetyn(e)
Fibre: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.
Weave: Satin, 7 or 8 shaft.
Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance resembling a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".
Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the millinery trade.

Eponge (Souffle)
Fibre: Wool, also rayon and silk.
Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse.
Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and sponge-like in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle".
Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits.

Felt
Fibre: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fibre, can be mixed with other fibres, cotton, rayon.
Weave: Not woven but felted.
Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not fray. Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts.

Flannel
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon.
Wool Flannel
Weave: Usually twill, some plain.
Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a napped surface that partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights. More loosely woven than worsted flannel with a higher nap and bulkier hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined. Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard, it flattens in the nap. Comes in many colours, weights, and fancy effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn.
Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts. Shirts and sportswear.

Worsted Flannel
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Made in a variety of weights. More closely woven and harder than wool flannel. Can have a very slight nap on one side. tailors very well. Presses well and holds a hard crease.
Uses: Men's suits, jacksets and trousers. Women's coats, suits, skirts, and tailored dresses.

Fleece
Fibre: Wool specialty hair fibres, cotton.
Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The inter-lacing s are will covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time.
Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.

Gabardine
Fibre: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.
Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees).
Characteristics: Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly.
Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.

Homespun
Fibre: Wool.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an undyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has a substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.
Uses: Coats, suits, seperates, and sportswear.

Hopsacking
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hem, jute.
Weave: Basket. In wool and worsted 2 x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to resemble hopsack cloth.
Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights.
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for dresses.

Houndstooth
Fibre: most commonly made with wool.
Weave: broken twill weave.
Characteristics: weaved into an irregular check of a four pointed star.
Uses: sportcoats, suits.

Jersey
Wool Jersey
Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).
Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.
Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

Doubleknit
Fibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics
Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type
Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the right side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

Kersey
Fibre: Wool - poor quality, can also be made of re-used or remanufactured wool.
Weave: Double cloth.
Characteristics: Medium to heavy weight, similar to melton and beaver. Well fulled in the finishing with a rather lustrous nap caused by the use of lustrous crossbred wools. Nap often has direction. Gives good wear and is dressy looking. Blues, browns and blacks are the most popular colours. Originated in Kersey, England in 11th century. Very similar to beaver but it is fulled more, has a shorter nap and a much higher lustre.
Uses: Men's overcoating, uniforms, women's coats, and skirts.

Lambswool
Fibre: Wool
Weave:
Characteristics:This is the wool that is taken from sheep before they reach the age of 7 months. It is soft and smooth and has superior spinning properties.
Uses:

Loden Cloth
Fibre: Wool or mixed-wool.
Weave:
Characteristics: Its name comes from the German word Loda, which means hair cloth. It was originally made exclusively from wool but is now found in a combination of wool with alpaca, mohair or camel. It is well known for its thickness, durability and resistance to water.
Uses: Winter clothes and sportswear.

Mackinaw
Fibre: Wool. Ordinary grade of wool and often has shoddy re-used or remanufactured wool mixed in. Sometimes a cotton warp is used.
Weave: Twill or double cloth. Weave is concealed.
Characteristics: Very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave. Much of the fabric is in a plaid or large check design or brightly coloured, or different colours on each side. Heavy and thick, very similar to melton. Named for MacKinac Island, Michigan. Also called ski cloth or snow cloth.
Uses: Miners, lumbermen, hunters, trappers, fishermen, and cowboys use much of the fabric for jackets, mackinaws and coats. Also used for blankets, shirts, and some heavy sportswear, windbreakers.

Melton
Fibre: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics.
Weave: Twill or satin weave.
Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely sheared. Coarse meltons are similar to makinaws but made of finer yarns and finished with a smoother, more lustrous surface - used for "under collar cloth" in lighter weights. Very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. if made in tan or buff colour in a coarse quality, it is called "Box cloth". It is classed with kersey, beaver, and broadcloth. Originated in Melton, Mowbray, England, which is a fox hunting report in england. It was first made as a hunting cloth. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat.
Uses: Mostly used for men in overcoating, uniform cloth of all kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as police and firemen), pea jackets, regal liverly. Used for heavy outer sports garments and coats for women.

Monk's Cloth
Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.
Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.
Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew and manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture.
Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.

Montagnac
Fibre:
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: This luxurious textile is soft and lustrous. It is mainly created with Cashemere or Camel hair.
Uses: Overcoating.

Pin Check, Pinhead, Pick and Pick
Fibre: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: A minute check effect caused by a combination of weave and colour. It has the appearance of tiny white dots appearing in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well. In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.
Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.

Pyrenees
Fibre: Wool
Weave:
Characteristics This fabric is made in France from the wool of Pyrenees'flocks of sheep. The Pyrenees is a mountain chain between France and Spain. The fabric is well known because it is a high quality fabric which keeps warm.
Uses: Men's and women's dressing gowns.

Repp or Rep
Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, rayon, wool ottoman, cotton or a blend.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a pronounced narrow cylindrical rib in the filling direction - less distinct than bengaline; more distinct than poplin. Sometimes a very distinct rib is alternated with a small rib. It is similar to poplin but heavier in cotton. Can be dyed, printed, or white. Frays badly. Difficult to press (may flatten rib).
Uses: Heavy suits, and coats for men's and boy's wear, and also for some women. Also used for upholstery and drapery.

Serge
Fibre: Worsted - also unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: A very distinct twill (2 up/2 down) which shows on both sides of the fabric.
Characteristics: On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot ne removed permanently. It is a good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has a very fine twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits.
Uses: Coats, suits and sportswear.

Shatush
Characteristics: This is one of the finest textiles. It is created from white, silver or gray hair of wild goats. The supply of this hair is very limited so the textile is very rare. It is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world.

Sharkskin
Fibre: Worsted. Some wool. Also made in rayons and synthetics (particularly Arnel) but they are quite different.
Weave: 2 x 2 twill weave (1 white, 1 black up and same down).
Characteristics: The yarns in both the warp and filling are alternately white (or very light yarns) and coloured. The combination of weave and colour results in coloured lines running diagonally to the left opposite to the twill lines in a "step" effect. Has a very sleek, smooth, feel and appearance. Although it is fairly light in weight, it has a very substantial feel. Gives excellent wear and sheds dirt readily. Has many variations.
Uses: Used for men's and women's suits, lightweight coats and sportswear.

Shetland
Fibre: Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. Sheep have a coarse outer coat and a very fine undercoat which gives added warmth. The best is the undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring. Other wools sometimes called shetland if they have a similar appearance.
Weave: Twill, plain, or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a very soft hand and a shaggy finish of protruding fibres. - a pulled wool; the soft undergrowth of the shetland sheep. Very lightweight and warm. Much is made by hand and comes in distinctive soft colouring. Often the natural colours ranging from off-white, various grays to almost black and brown are used and not dyed. Real Shetland wools are expensive, high quality products. - In the same family group as homespun, tweed and cheviot.
Uses: Coats, suits, and sportswear for both men and women. Fine shetlands are made into fine shawls, underwear crochet, work and hosiery.

Suede
Fibre: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted.
Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier.
Uses: Cleaning cloths, gloves, linings, sports coats.

Tricotine
Fibre: Worsted, wool, rayon, blends with synthetics.
Weave: 63 twill, left to right (double).
Characteristics: Has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily. Medium in weight. Has exceptional wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry twill, but finer. In the same family as whipcords, coverts, and gabardines.
Uses: Men's and women's suits and coats. It is also used for ski slacks in a stretch fabric.

Tropical Worsteds
Fibre: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any fibre or blends of wool and a synthetic.
Weave: Plain and rather open weaves.
Characteristics: The yarns are very tightly twisted and woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and tropical wear. It has a clear finish. Wears and tailors very well.
Uses: Both men's and women's suits and coats.

Tweed
Fibre: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics.
Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or plain.
Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland. Sometimes known as "tweel". Sistercloth of homespun cheviot and shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use. Originally only made from different coloured stock-dyed fibres, producing various colour effects. There are a wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds. May also be plaid, checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well.
Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children. Lighter weight, used for dresses.

Harris Tweed
All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides). There are two types of Harris Tweed:
1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn.
2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn.
Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped to that effect in addition to the label which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28" widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smokey.

Venetian
Fibre: Worsted, wool worsted and wool, cotton.
Weave: 5 shaft satin, some in small repeat twill weaves, in cotton, 8 shaft satin (warp face). 2 ply warp and single filling.
Characteristics: Clear finish. Has a very good lustre finish which resembles satin. Some has a slight nap. Wears well - similar cloth has worsted warp and woolen filling.
Uses: In a good quality used for expensive suits for women and sports jackets for men. Also used for fine coatings for both men and women. In cotton, it resembles very heavy sateen and is used mostly for lining.

Viyella
Fibre: A blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: Has the appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm. Holds a good pleat. Washable by machine. If made up in a slim skirt for women, should be underlined, as it has not much body.
Uses: Excellent for all kinds of children's and baby's wear, sportswear, men's and women's tailored shirts and dresses.

Whipcord
Fibre: Worsted or woolen, also cotton and rayon.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. The twill is steep 63 degrees and goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it stimulates the lash of a whip.
Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is also used for automobile seat covers and little boys play suits.

Wool
Fibre:
Weave:
Characteristics: This fibre is made from the hair of various animals such as sheep, llamas, camels and goats. It is very resilient and resistant to wrinkling. It is renewed by moisture and well known for its warmth.
Uses:Clothing, blankets, winter wear.

Zibeline
Fibre: Wool from cross-bred yarns.
Weave: Satin.
Characteristics: The fabric is napped then steamed and pressed. The nap is long and lies in one direction. It is very lustrous and sleek. It may or may not be given a soft finish and feel. It is usually strong colored and sometimes stripings (removal of color) is noted in the cloth. Named for the "zibeline" a small animal found in Siberia. It belongs to the sable family and has fine black fur.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, capes and winter suits for women.