How to Construct the Three Elements of a Weaving Design given the Other Two

LIFTING PLAN OR PEG PLAN

Lifting plans indicate how each heald shaft is lifted on each pick in the design.
Let us again take our draft and design as worked previously.




We see that (1st, 5th, 9th) ends raised on 1st and 2nd pick; as there ends are attached to the 1st heald shaft; so 1st heald shaft should be lifted on 1st and 2nd pick and dropped on 3rd and 4th pick.

Similarly 2nd heald shaft should be lifted in 2nd and 3rd pick, 3rd head shaft should be lifted in 3rd and 4th pick and last heald shaft should be lifted in 4th and 1st pick.

How to Construct a Lifting Plan from a given Draft and Design

First of all we have to observe that lifting plan or peg plan is a relationship between the heald shaft and the no of picks.

Thus we can say that

Lifting plan decides Working of heald shaft and picks.
Design decides Working of ends and picks
And draft decides working of heald shaft and ends.

Thus these three are related.

As in our design, there are 4 heald shaft and 4 picks so our lifting plan will have 4 heald shafts and 4 picks. It is indicated on the left of the design. The rows, indicate the picks and columns the heald shafts.





Now to draw the lifting plan we proceed as follows:
From Design it is known that 1st end is up on 1st ad 2nd pick. As first end is connected to 1st heald shaft. So heald shaft No.1 should also be up on 1st and 2nd pick. We denote it by cross as shown in the figure below





Thus in the lifting plan it is clear that 1st heald shaft is lifted on 1st and 2nd pick.
Let us see the working of 2nd heald shaft. It is clear from draft and design that 2nd heald shaft is lifted (“up”) on 2nd and 3rd pick. So we trace its working on the lifting plan as:





Similarly we can trace the working of 3rd and 4th heald shaft on the lifting plane so that our final lifting plane will look like as given below:





How to Construct a draft from design and lifting plan

Here we see that 1st , 4th and 10th ends are working alike. So we take them on the first heald shaft as shown in figure (a). Similarly 3rd, 8th and 12th ends are working alike so we take them on the second heald shaft. Going by the same reasoning 2nd, 6th and 9th ends are taken on the third heald shaft and 4th, 7th and 11th ends are taken on the fouth heald shaft as shown in figures (c) and (d). The combined draft is given as shown in figure (e)





How to Construct a design from given draft and lifting plan


Here we notice from the drafting lan that the first heald shaft is connected with 1st, 5th and 10th end. Also from lifting plan, we find that this heald shaft is up on first and second pick. So we copy the working of the first heald shaft as shown in figure (a). Similarly we can copy the working of the second, third and fourth heald shafts as shown in figure (b), (c) and (d). Finally the combined design is as shown in figure (e).

Drafting and Denting Plan in Weaving Design

Systems of drafting

Apart from straight draft there are other systems of drafting which are in vogue. Some of the common ones are given as follows:

1. Skip drafts

This systems is particularly useful is weaving very densely set fabrics. Normally a small number of heald shafts is required, but to avoid overcrowding of heald eyes and to reduce friction and rubbing, more than minimum heald shafts are used.

For example, the plain weaves indicated at A may be drawn on two heald shafts as shown in B. But this works only when cloth is coarse. If the cloth is of medium fineness then plain weave may be drawn on four heald shafts as shown in C. If the cloth in very fine, the plain weave may be drawn on six heald shafts, as indicated in D.

Sateen draft

The purpose of sateen draft is similar to skip draft. It is also used to reduce friction between adjacent warp ends and to prevent overcrowding of heald eyes. But here the number of heald shaft is not increased rather the ends are staggered and placed randomly.

For example the following design employs straight draft.

However, the same design can be made using sateen draft

Notice that peg-plan is also changed.

Point draft

Point drafts are used for weaves which are symmetrical about the centre. They are frequently employed to produce waved or diamond effects.

The main advantage of the system is that is allows the production of a large number of effects with lesser number of heald shafts than those used in straight draft.

Example – Consider a design employing pointed draft as in this figure given below:

Denting plans

Denting plans describe the arrangement of the warp ends in the reed (dents are the gaps between the metal reed wires).

Denting plans depend on the number of ends per inch and the number of dents per inch in the reed.

Denting plans indicate how many inch to be put in one end of the dent.

It we place those ends which work alike in the same dent of the reed, there will be same rubbing of ends.

The prevent this, the ends which work alike are drawn through different dents.For Example, The figures A show a design and B its denting order.

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